Tallinn, Estonia
Wednesday, April 16, 2014 at 9:58AM ;)
From Helsinki, Estonia was a short ferry ride for us across the Baltic Sea (specifically, the Gulf of Finland). The country gained its independence from the USSR in 1991, and previously had quite a tumultuous history with the Russians and the Germans, as we were to learn during our visit. Tallinn is the capital of Estonia, and its medieval Old Town was our destination. In addition to offering up Old Town, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Tallinn happens to be home to Skype’s software development center and has a vibrant IT development economy generally, an intriguing mix of old and new and of particular interest to one member of our traveling party.
I temporarily forgot this rich background when the taxi driver collected us from the ferry terminal and cut around behind a worn out circa 1970s fair ground to make our way into the Old Town. Our cabbie sported a tracksuit with the stripes down the sleeves and legs, had an almost buzzed head and blasted Shania Twain from his radio. All of the movie stereotypes of former Soviet regions washed over us in waves and we tried not to giggle.
Two Thumbs Up
Because Tallinn has never been razed or pillaged, the old buildings still stand in all their glory. Each one is incredibly unique and interesting, if inefficient with oddly shaped rooms and tiny corridors. The winding, laid-out-by-a-drunk-cow streets invite you to wander and explore without purpose. To discover little passageways. To stop here and there impulsively for a pastry or glass of wine. I love these types of cities the most.
;)
History Day
Our stay couldn’t be all about pie and grog, though, so we took a day to visit history museums.
The KBG museum is located in the abandoned KGB office on the previously off-limits 23rd floor of a hotel where foreigners were required to stay when visiting the city back in the day. The Soviets built the hotel in the 1970s as a means to accumulate foreign currency, and to keep an eye on all those “spying” tourists. The offices themselves weren’t particularly visually interesting, but the stories! It is hard to believe that this happened in our lifetimes – the KGB only abandoned it in the 1990s, after Estonia’s independence.
;)
In the KGB's abandoned hotel outpost with a direct line to the also abandoned main KGB office.
One display included a list of Soviet “sponsored” prostitutes who were utilized because they were in fact an effective means of procuring information, or at least compromising photos. The museum curators have redacted family names from the list, however, to avoid some local visitor from accidentally discovering a mother or grandmother’s name. There are also several hotel employees from the KGB era that still work in the hotel. It’s all that recent.
;)
My iPhone can do more than this old KGB equipment.
The Museum of Occupation shares the story of the Nazi occupation of Estonia during World War II and the Soviets thereafter. It wasn’t clear which of the two would take over during WWII but generally Estonia feared the Nazis less, a fact that left quite an impression on us. You know you are in a bad way when you face occupation by one of either the Soviets or the Nazis. And the Nazis are likely the better of the two. The museum also included a wall of photos about the current Ukrainian unrest – a conflict that must be near and dear to Estonian hearts.
The Museum of Life. We finished off our history lesson on top of the wall surrounding the city. As we tried to soak up the medieval architecture, we learned that a café on top of a fortified wall is a tourist trap that charges an outrageous, unlisted price for hot wine. Rookie mistake, but it was quite yummy and the view was lovely.
;)
Tallinn Cobblestones
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A word about the roads and sidewalks of this medieval town, if I may. They are absurdly bumpy. Helsinki’s bricked streets battered the wheels of AD’s suitcase and Tallinn finished them off. For the longest time all we could find as a replacement at the Tallinn mall was a giant bright pink Hello Kitty suitcase. It would have cost a fortune but I soooo wanted it to be the only choice for AD. I wished as hard as I could but alas he found a boring black duffle with wheels instead. We took a taxi back to the port to return to Helsinki rather than walk through town because taxi fare is significantly cheaper than euro-priced luggage.
The locals don’t seem at all perturbed by the cobblestones however. We could only stare with our mouths open at the girl on rollerblades. She nonchalantly continued on her bumpy way with her hands tucked into her jacket pockets. Level: expert. And I have nothing but admiration for the women in high heels that walk more gracefully atop the stones than I do on a smooth sidewalk.
;)
Reader Comments (3)
Please tell me your aforementioned cute, unstretchable boots don't have heels! I fear reading a blog you've written from a hospital bed!
Did I tell you that I like the way you write about your trips. That is a good example. It gives the incentive to go ourselves.
Waiting for the next stop.
For my first trip ever (I think) I did not bring heels. It was a stressful decision, but so far my low heeled boots have been fashionably sufficient :).
Glad you guys are enjoying the blog!